To Kolhapur and Beyond

We started early on Friday morning from Mumbai. This was the longest drive of our trip, with no stops planned along the way and no agenda other than to reach Kolhapur as early as possible. The drive to Pune with lush green hills, myriad waterfalls, choc a bloc traffic at Lonavala was all as expected. We had crossed the Western Ghats, and for the first time experienced the monsoon, and seasonal vegetation of the Deccan Plateau. The road quality was excellent, and the drive was really soothing and enjoyable. The drive to Kolhapur was transformed from a destination to be reached, to a journey worth experiencing. It was enhanced by the frequent stops at Vittal's Kamats restaurant (& clean bathrooms) - especially the last one - with mouth watering kanda bhajji.

After 8hrs on the road, we arrived at Kolhapur full of energy to make the most of what we could of the remaining part of the day. The Sayaji Hotel quality was a pleasant surprise – it was not a small town hotel of yester years – this was a modern establishment – tastefully constructed and decorated – with full amenities available to the guests. We could tell that Kolhapur would surprise us.

Khau Galli - To Be Or Not To Be?

Our first stop was Khau Galli, with great trepidation of falling sick on the first day itself, we agreed to see hygiene levels and then decide whether to eat.

We expected small

stalls on the roadside and crowded streets, instead we got shiny stainless steel counters, food prepared by people wearing gloves and hair nets, a capable parking usher ensuring no double parking etc.

We found it difficult to make Bhel choices from the extensive and exotic options offered. For the Mumbaikar, some easy explanations are required:

• Liquid Bhel is just our regular mumbai bhel with the liquid standing for 'with all chutneys'

• Dry bhel is apna 'sukha bhel'

• Bhewda Mix has nothing to do with our 'bewdas' - it is a bhel with only daal no rice puffs

• Farsana is with rice puffs and farsana

• Pittanashak Bhel is with aamla chutneys

• Malwani bhel has nuts in it

• And the Tea Time Bhel contains 3 layers of bhel - Farsana, Bhewda & Liquid

We tried the Bhewda and the Liquid, and will definitely go back for the others next time round.

The Kolhapuri Vada Pav was luckily much simpler to decipher. It was a dal and aloo vada with one slice of thick white bread. And it was delicious!

Kolhapuri Chappals - Are they still relevant?

For one, the shop had locals buying for their regular wear, so it was clearly relevant to them. For our kids, it was their first experience with non-factory produced chappals, where the shop owner guesses your size without measuring your feet, and two chappals of the same size fit differently. My wife and I revelled in trying different styles, found them comfortable, and packed multiple jodis to be couriered back to Mumbai.

The shop owner, Saiprasad confided that his family had been in this work for 4 generations. The only change he sees now is that he has a WhatsApp store, and releases a new line of chappals every season on a WhatsApp catalogue, and gets orders for couriering them globally. The courier packaging was very fashionable, and he had a ready reckoner courier price list available for each destination in India and abroad.

Mahalakshmi (Ambabai) Temple - Will my children connect?

Kolhapur retains its small town feel, especially in the old city. The imposing Mahalakshmi temple main gate cannot be missed. It was built in the 'Hemandpanthi' style in 7th century AD, and has been added to by successive dynasties of kings. The idol itself is believed to be 5000 years old, based on its mention in Puranas. The earliest references of this temple say that the JIRNODHAR of this temple was done by Rishi Agasti. According to several Granthas like the Karveer Mahatmya the period of Rishi Agasti's visit to Karveer goes back to approximately 2000 years.

We waited in the main hall, surrounded by the rhythmic chants of local ladies, requesting the devi to grant them darshan, and jostling to get closer to the Garbha Griha. Then, magically, the curtain was lifted, conches were blown and the Aarti started. Once it ended, I felt a calm and surrender. We could all agree, that we were witnessing a daily ritual spanning a minimum 1000 years of human history.

As is his wont, my son was the first to broach the difficult question: What is the meaning of this Devi? Why do we worship this Devi? Luckily, our guide was up to the task. He explained that suppose there was a lot of exam stress my son was feeling, and both parents and sister were asleep, he could still turn to Devi Ma, and ask her to help, and sleep comfortably knowing that Devi would respond. It was a stress buster, that was universally available. This thought of a being always looking out for him, to whom he could confide all his concerns and then sleep well, so that he could awake invigorated and ready the next day, has really made a connection for him.

With a satisfied feeling that we have had a great start to our journey, and surrendering our troubles at the feet of Ambabai, we retired to our hotel for some rest and rejuvenation.

At Sayaji, we ate Naaza, Naan Pizza for the first time, at the well appointed and tastefully furnished Moon Tree Cafe.

Vikram’s "Best Food in the World" Counter: 4